3rd speed gear mod...

a message from steve... also see this topic...

There’s been some comment recently about the difficulty of removing the crankshafts on the DCC because of the 3rd speed hub. One of our customer’s, who owns a number of full size engines, has given me some details of what Burrell actually did to overcome this. Basically all they did was to create a ‘cut out’ in the hub so that when it was at its lowest position it could be removed over the main bearing housing. I’ve created a drawing that should explain this better than my words. The dimensions given are not critical other than the length of the cut out needs to clear the casting and its depth is up to the inside face of the hub.

It really is a simple solution. I just wish I’d known about it during the design stages. As far as I can recollect, it didn’t appear on the original drawings. The cut out would of course have been hidden by the gear when in neutral, so I didn’t spot it when we were crawling all over Ex-Mayor.

Although not a necessity, I do think it would be a worthwhile modification, even at this late stage. Much better than removing the hub itself.

Hi Craig / Steve,

I guess the next question is Will this mod be incorporated in kits yet to be delivered?

Ian

Cool. I kept forgetting to ask about this mod as I spotted it on the Burrell showman I spent the evening on at Castle Fraser. Since my 3rd gear is off at the moment. I will be doing the mod.

not 100% sure but i think we will be modifying the ones in stock. also there is no mention of an offer to modify any that you return !!??

all i can say is, from a production point of view its best to get it over with in one go

Takes 20mins with a hacksaw and grinder.

Gotta get the bloody thing off first!! However, as you say Lynn, shouldn't take to long to modify & should be well within the capabilities of most of us that arebuilding these engines

May I suggest. Those who have the 3rd gear boss keyed on. Would it not be best leaving the modification until you need to remove the crank. I had to remove for a problem otherwise I would not be doing the mod until I need to remove the crank. Also if you need to remove the crank with the boss on you can do it by taking the bearing housing out as well. Then you can heat and drift the boss off with the crank in the workmate.

All I can say is if you have the abilities to either carry this out youself or get it off to STW for them to do then do it. Today after a busy week reassembling I ran to have a good blast on the road, After about half an hour the engine started to labour badly and then ground to a halt. It sounded tight but we couldnt indentify anywhere that seemed to be causing the issue. Trying to get back to home the nylon gear suddenly exploded and shot two teeth at us as the water pump had locked up solid. Mainly due to a few assembly issues.

Anyway The Coleman and me pushed the sodding thing back to the house in 25 degrees and hot sun to make the descision that the crank had to come out. despite still being hot we removed, repaired the pump and refitted the crank with the hub insitu in about three hours. Without having done this mod I think I would have cried and given up. The bearing in the drive shaft of the pump had locked up due to installation issues and the cam wasnt running smooth either but it has all been sorted and hopefully will run fine for next weekend at Amberley. I should also say that as the gear was nylon it broke as the weakest link instead of causing some real issues so that also seems to be a bonus in a wierd sort of way.

Cant say how happy I am to have carried out this mod but more importantly tested its effectiveness.

Made the mod to my drive last night with a slitting disc in an angle grinder in situ, finishing off with a Dremel, TC burs and filing. It works, as I then removed the crank to pack up the gear side bearing a little: the mesh on the high wheel was too tight. Now going to re-align the crank and RH bearings as this has shifted to the left a little.

Tim