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IanL Road Loco

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Post  highpressure Wed 13 Aug 2014, 2:56 pm

Very good, nice to see another engine come to life!! I agree with Brian about the knock, that's not right or very nice and needs to be found, they should run almost silently, several of my vids show the engine creeping round with no real sound but the chuff when working. If you don't get it now it will only get worse and cause damage. You're doing very well to run at 40 or so!! especially slowly, but you need many hours to run in properly so keep firing, and you need to put it in gear!!! ( that will test your nerves the first few times !!! )

Advice from Peter Hawkins, don't run with the drains open, only to clear condensate, it washes the lube oil out and causes it to run dry in the LP side. I didn't have the springs in for the whole of last year with no effect other than what Brian described with deceleration however Andy ( The Coleman ) gave me a really strong spring this year for no reason other than to produce a really strong exhaust throb when just ticking over which it does nicely. If you are at Dorset come and find Andy and myself to hear and see his engine, mine isn't there this year, didn't get in ( keeping opinions to myself ) but I am helping Andy as his wingman to repay last years compliment.

Most of your little niggles will start to disappear, less each time.
highpressure
highpressure

Number of posts : 1096
Age : 56
Location : West Sussex, 4" DCC Road Loco
Registration date : 2008-06-18

http://www.simplydigitalaerials.com

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Post  lynnr Wed 13 Aug 2014, 8:03 pm

Looking at the timing of the knock. My thinking is the HP upper slide is a bit loose.

But what an achievement. Congratulations on first running.

lynnr
lynnr

Number of posts : 3242
Age : 55
Location : Highland, 4inch showman
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Post  IanL Wed 13 Aug 2014, 8:06 pm

I called in to STw today and had a long chat with Steve, thanks Isabel for the tea, my wife was impressed that you knew how I like my tea! The HP side slide definitely needs re shimming as there is quite a bit of play in it. I will also check the valve rods are not hitting the cylinder I have already trimmed quite a bit off the HP rod. There does not appear to be any play in the big ends so think they are not the source of the knock. Strangely completely silent in reverse. Maybe I need to check the crankshaft bearing for any needed adjustment

I have also driven it in first gear for about 200 yards , the damper rod keeps dropping off the pin so shutting down the fire. I need to sort out a method of resolving this, any suggestions initial thought is some sort of strap.

I will not be at Dorset this year clashes with a meeting at Chatsworth that I am planning on going to. But will be going as a punter to Lincoln one day this weekend.

Ian
IanL
IanL

Number of posts : 437
Age : 68
Location : Nottinghamshire
Registration date : 2011-07-25

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Post  lynnr Wed 13 Aug 2014, 9:45 pm

Damper rod. Bigger slot and nock over the end to make a hook. Problem solved.
In reverse the dynamics around the slide bars is completely different. So may give the impression of no problem.
lynnr
lynnr

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Post  IanL Wed 13 Aug 2014, 9:47 pm

Hi Lynn,

Thanks for the suggestion for the damper rod, sounds a better solution than mine will give it a try.

Ian
IanL
IanL

Number of posts : 437
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Post  IanL Sat 23 Aug 2014, 1:49 pm

Second steaming this morning for 3 hours , initially all leaks appear to have gone, however, after two hours the saftey valve started to leak around its base gasket. Which got worse so decided to let the engine cool down. The water pump needs looking at as it is leaking probably just needs more packing. Injector worked very well above 100 psi. The safeties lifted at 180psi and dropped the pressure to 150 but needed a tap to get it to seat again. There still appears to be a knock despite re shimming the slides. So will take the big ends apart to check them.
The blower worked after becoming blocked up again at about 40psi, but cleared itself later and worked well, the water lifter worked very well sucking up a 2 galloon bucket in less than 30 seconds.

I have applied to DVLA for a registration number this week, so fingers crossed I hear from them soon .

IanL
IanL

Number of posts : 437
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Post  hartshaulage Sat 23 Aug 2014, 9:25 pm

Sounds good ian, Have you gone for a personal registration or just what ever they give you

Russ
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Post  highpressure Sun 24 Aug 2014, 1:58 pm

Hi Ian,

Have you got a gasket under the safties, if not then fit one, if so then is it good stuff like Klinkerseal? That will generally sort that out easily. The water pump is bit of pig to get a good seal due to the back pressure when pumping, Andy is still having issues with his, mine leaked all last year but over the winter I took the ram out, sanded it down with wet and dry to get it as smooth as poss as the ram had a cerated feel which I think was wearing the packing out. Then put at least three if not four wraps of the PTFE rope which has worked this year. Knocks are VERY annoying and also difficult to find, the slightest movement can sound quite fierce especially under load, dont however do what I did and hold the con rods whilst running to see if you can feel it!!! The things trapped my finger between the rod and slide bar which is a gap of about 1/16" and doesnt fit fingers well!!!!#

The more you steam the easier it gets, ask Andy, his early steamings were quite difficult and are just a distant memory now!!!

Regards Kev.
highpressure
highpressure

Number of posts : 1096
Age : 56
Location : West Sussex, 4" DCC Road Loco
Registration date : 2008-06-18

http://www.simplydigitalaerials.com

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Post  IanL Sun 24 Aug 2014, 7:59 pm

Reg number what ever they give me I had thought about the 57EAM range but IL is not allowed.

Kev, the water pump ram I polished this when I originally assembled it as you say the ram is rough from the machining. But I only put on 2 turns of the gland packing, now have a few extra metres available so will repack with at least one extra turn as the gland nuts are already nearly up tight.

I have tried to feel any movement on both big ends and absolutely nothing, but the slide on the HP side has a slight movement.

The lubricator does not appear to be working as the oil level has not dropped. It worked when checked with the HP valve plate off but clearly with pressure the pump in the lubricator is not man enough for the job, any ideas please.

Ian


Last edited by IanL on Sun 24 Aug 2014, 10:16 pm; edited 1 time in total
IanL
IanL

Number of posts : 437
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Post  lynnr Sun 24 Aug 2014, 9:17 pm

Check your ball and O rings. Any muck or debris will stop pumping. You can test cold by finger over hold and rotate cam. The oil should force past a hard pressed finger. Also check your non return.
lynnr
lynnr

Number of posts : 3242
Age : 55
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Post  IanL Mon 25 Aug 2014, 7:08 pm

Hi Lynn,

Thanks for the suggestion re the ball and O rings, the ball kept popping through the outer O ring so I shortened the spring by about half to one ring, this stopped the ball being pushed through the O ring, and the lubricator is now pumping well.
Ian
IanL
IanL

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Post  IanL Sun 28 Sep 2014, 8:09 pm

Third steaming today lit fire at 1230 let it all die down at 1730 water pump still leaking a bit on the gland packing but the the pump is still putting water into the boiler, the injector worked very well. However the casting on one of the clack valves is porous and letting steam out of a pin hole, also lets water out when using the water pump. Safety valve lifts at 180 and reseats at 160 psi. I have at last pinpointed the knock it is as Brian suggested the HP bigend. There is an iniatal leak on the HP slide bolt on the cylinder but this seals once it is up to temp. It feels like the regulator is letting by so will have to contact Steve for the modification kit. The LP side is working fine on slow tick over you can here the valve plate click shut, and the start button works extremely well.
Will have to look to find an examiner to get a steam ticket.

I am still waiting for DVLA to come up with a number, after four weeks they asked my to complete two additional forms one a built up vehicle report listing what parts are new or reused, the second one was V112G which is an application for an exemption from an MOT for a goods vehicle weighing in excess of 3500kg. Clearly they cannot read the original application which showed the weight as 750kg. They also wanted the original receipts for all new items purchased .

Ian
IanL
IanL

Number of posts : 437
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Post  IanL Tue 11 Nov 2014, 2:10 pm

After a further four weeks I have now received a letter asking me to stamp a VIN on the engine. Having read the letter it states the number needs to be stamped on to the chassis/frame/bodywork. No mention of the boiler so I have have stamped it onto the front of the smoke box where it will be hidden behind the smoke box door. The local garage was happy with this location and is a whole lot easier to get at than the boiler foundation ring or the man hole surround. The smoke box is clearly part of the frame as the front suspension is mounted to it. So now waiting to hear back hopefully with a registration number.
IanL
IanL

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Post  bjwlancashire Tue 11 Nov 2014, 10:57 pm

Ian

The person dealing with your application has got it so wrong, the boiler number on the plate on the boiler is used as the VIN number on every other STW engine registered. Not sure how you sort this out but it sound like you will need an MOT after 3 years.

You might want to check the forum thread for registration and show it the person you dealt with as they clearly have no clue.

Cheers

Brian
bjwlancashire
bjwlancashire

Number of posts : 938
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Post  IanL Wed 12 Nov 2014, 10:04 am

Hi Brian,

I am not the only one who has had to put a VIN on their road loco it appears there has been a change this year at DVLA not been asked for an inspection ie, MOT just for a local garage to confirm that the VIN has been stamped correctly. I have discussed with Steve and he suggested the foundation ring as the location. When I built the Cobra replica the VIN was supplied by the kit manufacturer they used two letters followed by the year of chassis manufacture then the customers land line number. This results in a 17 character alpha numeric which is what the VIN has to be. I suggested to Steve that they could do similar and issue the number with the boiler and stamp it on the boiler ID plate. He was going to check with DVLA if this would be acceptable.

Cheers

Ian
IanL
IanL

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Post  bjwlancashire Wed 12 Nov 2014, 1:05 pm

I stand corrected Ian

It would be good to have that extra input for STW generating the unique number they can use as a VIN.
bjwlancashire
bjwlancashire

Number of posts : 938
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Post  IanL Wed 12 Nov 2014, 10:11 pm

Brian,

It still remains to be seen what happens in 3 years time should be interesting to see them check the seat belts!
Ian
IanL
IanL

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Post  IanL Thu 20 Nov 2014, 6:30 pm

Well returned home tonight to find a letter from DVLA with the registration document for the Steam Vehicle I have a nice new 64 plate number. Have checked on line it has a valid tax until 1/11/15 Now need to sort out the last few jobs before arranging a steam test. Oh and get some number plates made up.
IanL
IanL

Number of posts : 437
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Post  MrStationHouse Thu 20 Nov 2014, 10:50 pm

Hello Ian

Just picking up on the registration trail, have you got yours registered without a steam certificate?

Do you have to take it for an inspection ?

Best wishes
Simon

MrStationHouse

Number of posts : 314
Location : Malmesbury
Registration date : 2011-04-26

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Post  lynnr Thu 20 Nov 2014, 11:52 pm



Steam test not needed for registration. I also could not even hold water when I got Crystals. It was a boiler (Chassis), 2 Axil rigid, red and new build. Just as it says on the form.

lynnr
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Post  MrStationHouse Fri 21 Nov 2014, 8:45 am

Thanks Lynn,

I knew I could rely on you! Does the original STW boiler ticket need to be in date?

With best wishes
Simon

MrStationHouse

Number of posts : 314
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Post  IanL Fri 21 Nov 2014, 3:30 pm

I sent a photo copy of the STW boiler hydraulic test dates Sep 2012, safety valve certificate, letter of newness from STW and letter stating it would not exceed 8 mph again from STW I also included a copy of the advertising leaflet for the road loco which gives dimensions and weight, also needed is a copy of the insurance document using the boiler ID. After four weeks a was asked to send in all the original receipts along with a form stating it was a new build. Unfortunately DVLA have not returned any of the supporting evidence including the original receipts. This is not a problem for us but has been for people building cars which have to go through the IVA test as the local VOSA test centre have to see the original reciepts as well as the DVLA. An example of two government agencies both wanting the same thing and not working together.

I have a few items to adjust replace leaking clack valve, regulator that has become stuck, two eccentrics which have also become loose. And to find an inspector to do the steam check
IanL
IanL

Number of posts : 437
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IanL Road Loco - Page 8 Empty First registration

Post  Steve Traill Fri 21 Nov 2014, 4:03 pm

What a pain they seem to be, when I did my 4" Aggi 8 years ago I went to my local office & 20 minutes later I walked out with a registration number. I'll be registering my crane engine next year, I don't want to loose the receipts so will send copies of everything.
Steve Traill
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Post  IanL Mon 24 Nov 2014, 1:05 pm

In the post this morning DVLA have returned all the supporting evidence I sent them. Ie all the receipts, photocopies of certificates and photos of the engine and boiler plate. It cost them quite a bit in postage as it was a fairly heavy bundle of paper!

Ian
IanL
IanL

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Post  IanL Wed 24 Dec 2014, 3:06 pm

it has been rather a long time since I posted any pictures, or done much building on the engine either.
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Taking pictures with a flash certainly shows up the dust on the engine. I am hoping to steam over the Christmas holidays to check that the replacement clack valve is working and the adjustment I have made to the HP big end has stopped the knock that was apparent on previous steamings. I still need to take two eccentrics off as the grub screws have loosened and are allowing them to slide on the crank. Or did I forget to tighten them in the first place?

Wishing all STWers a merry Christmas and Happy New Year

Ian
IanL
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