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Tender sealing insufficient

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lynnr
elwood-59
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Post  elwood-59 Wed 08 Jan 2020, 5:32 pm

Hi all,

after having sorted out the regulator issue (or so I hope) today I looked at the water filters in the tender, as I was using some steel wire (instead of the cable ties provided) but unfortunately I should have read the fine print, as the wire I was using started to rust. I placed a small (but strong) magnet into the tender which catched a lot of the iron particles. So far so good. Problem soved I thought.

For good measurement I took some pictures of the inside of the tender. As I had it painted professionally I could not seal the tender before installing the footplate so I had to seal it afterwards. To do so I have greatly enlarged the access cover to 180 x 180 mm so I can put both my hands in there if needed. I used Isoflex to "paint" the whole inside with a brush but now noticed that I seem to have missed an area about the size of half my pinky on the RH side close to where the bolt for the tow strap is downwards. This is where I also find some surface rust.Shocked

Now to the question: How to best tackle that? I cannot grind out the rust down to bare metal so will adding another layer of Isoflex just on top work for that? Do I need to add primer first? I do have some stuff that is to chemically turn rust into a passive coating. Or am I worrying too much (again?)

Open for suggestions Embarassed

Cheers

Elwood
elwood-59
elwood-59

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Post  lynnr Wed 08 Jan 2020, 5:37 pm

Use a rust passivator. Then Isoflex primer and top gunk.

I used lacquered copper wire, transformer winding, to secure the filters.
lynnr
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Post  Steve Traill Thu 09 Jan 2020, 3:44 pm

You can get stainless steel tying wire for tying up shackles on mooring chains so they don't undo. Most chandlers stock it.
Steve Traill
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Post  Capricorn1 Wed 22 Jan 2020, 11:02 am

I used some plain copper wire - stripped from a 13 amp flex to secure the filter mesh, then painted some Aradite strong around the ends for good measure.

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Post  elwood-59 Wed 22 Jan 2020, 11:49 am

Hi All,

What I did is to get hold of some stainless steel wire, wrap it around the two bronze ends and twisted it, works. I was thinking down the line of copper wire myself, but did not have the correct wire at hand nor, frankly speaking, did I think the copper wire would stand to the task.

Re Tender: painted it with rust inhibitor and am on my way to England soon to pick up primer and isoflex as Lynn suggested. Until then I let the paint dry (as the paint is quite low viscosity it tends to crawl into cracks and corners, I was told, but then takes some time to dry.)

Re Rust: as I could not steam at this moment I took out two of the plugs and used my (el cheapo Embarassed ) boroscope to have a look at the boiler and compare to new 2 years and several attempted steamings ago. Have to say, not much diffeence, barely any rust although I did not do much to the boiler other than to blow down the water after each session. So far so good. For future storing periods I will act different, of course, but at this stage it‘s more hassle to try and dry the boiler after each steaming, nor do I fully trust the weather to let is rest in the garage full of water, as sometimes we get (quite a bit) below freezing temperature. Maybe I am a bit too careful but...

Cheers
Elwood
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Post  BurrellSimplicity Fri 14 Feb 2020, 12:40 pm

don't use isoflex for the tank or belly tank

order or get some Cromapol roof sealant! best thing for sealing tanks! isoflex and per15 dont bond as well.

Cromapol is a resin and has fibers in it. it's super sticky gunk. needs a couple of coats, i'd get white so you can see what your doing!

Tender sealing insufficient 69571b10



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Post  elwood-59 Fri 14 Feb 2020, 1:33 pm

Hi BurrellSimplicity,

Too late Smile  Done both Tender and belly tank with isoflex long ago. Belly tank is now 2 years since coating and still ok. I only had to redo the tender as I missed some small places.
The decision to use isoflex was based on experience of others, so I keep my fingers crossed it will stand up to the task. But nevertheless always good to see different positions & ideas

Cheers

Elwood
elwood-59
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Post  Steve Traill Sat 15 Feb 2020, 10:30 am

Cromopol is good stuff, I've used it for years to stop leaks on flat roofs, cracks in asbestos roofs etc and never had a come back. Never thought of using it in the tender and bellytank. So long as it given plenty of time to cure (it's water based) it should be good. It has self healing properties as well.
Steve Traill
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Post  LiveSteam Mon 17 Feb 2020, 8:46 pm

Wonder what its like on rust ?

Just I know my tender is feeling a bit poorly these days and I do need to get in there and do something about it.

Plan is to plasma out most of the top and then re-attach it as trying to do anything through the regular round hole is going to be not easy.

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Post  BurrellSimplicity Mon 17 Feb 2020, 10:09 pm

It does take a while to dry and It needs a few coats but it’s very good stuff.

As for rust I’m not sure. Why not just start again and order a new tender from STW then seal it properly and add all your bits back on. By the time you have cut yours up, cleaned the rust or tried to. And then coated over it. Then sort out adding the top back in. That’s going to need some angle iron adding. It’s probably best to order 2 side plate and the rear/ bottom, front and lid and re make it. That’s what I’d do anyway. Saves hassle, hard work and stress.
I was lucky on my Foster as I caught it before too much rust had set in I was able to get at it and clean it off. Pealed the isoflex off and re sealed it. As this has fibres in it it creates almost a knitted layer over the top so even some bits of iso that had stuck / around rivets has a full covering over them.

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Post  LiveSteam Tue 18 Feb 2020, 8:03 pm

BurrellSimplicity wrote:

As for rust I’m not sure. Why not just start again and order a new tender from STW then seal it properly and add all your bits back on. By the time you have cut yours up, cleaned the rust or tried to. And then coated over it. Then sort out adding the top back in. That’s going to need some angle iron adding. It’s probably best to order 2 side plate and the rear/ bottom, front and lid and re make it. That’s what I’d do anyway. Saves hassle, hard work and  stress.

That is an option I wondered about but can see more hassle in it really. Plasma cutting the top out is quite literally a under 3 mins job, it will take longer for the compressor to wind up, adding the 4 lengths of steel plate back into the top is about an 1hr or two tops, or I might not even bother and just plasma out a new plate 10mm bigger than the hole and drop some threaded holes around it to re-secure it. So to cut out and replace the top could be done in about an hour or so tops, if I do the latter option. All thats left is de-rusting time, which I'll agree is a bit of an unknown..........where as.......

Pulling the complete tender off and then to take that apart and strip it and building the new etc I can see easily taking a weekend as long as nothing snaps breaks off or strips in the process. I then hate to think of the time to paint and re-line the tender and then I'd lose the scruffiness patina of the old tender Laughing

For me I'd say there would be more stress in building new one and pulling the old off etc than giving the innards a de-rust. Another option I thought about was to knock up a copper insert version of the tender or even glass up the inside of the tender, although both of those would take a bit longer than a bit of slap and tickle with some Cromopol I'd suspect.


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