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slidebars and crosshead..

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slidebars and crosshead.. Empty slidebars and crosshead..

Post  northburrell Fri 03 Apr 2009, 4:09 pm

Hi everyone

Just somthing to check on all your models.

I found when i had the slide bars fitted up to the weighshaft bracket and cylinder the crosshead when at full stroke towards the backhead could move up and down in the slidebars by about 1 or 2 mill. the crosshead was also a little tight up at the rear cylinder cover. It doesnt really stress this part that much in the instructions but the slidebars fitting the cross head properly is VERY important. if you want your engine to not clank after a few years it is well worth checking that the crosshead runs flat on the slide bars all the way through the cylinders stroke.. I used my vernier calipers to check that the slide bars are parallel. I found they there were miles out allmost 2 mill wider at the end of the stoke compared to the other end. I got some cheep feeler gauges from halfords to cut up to make shims. (drinks cans are good aswell) I put shims under the slide bars were they bolt to the cylinder and it took a little time to get right.

The end result will be an engine that will run smoothly for years on end. if there is any play in the cross head the cranking motion will pull and push the crosshead up and down and wear either your slidebars or crosshead resulting in a loose clanky engine. It's worth checking out and correcting if you need to.

Jo

northburrell

Number of posts : 197
Location : edinburgh
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Post  hughb Fri 03 Apr 2009, 9:00 pm

Hi thanks for the heads up .I will have too look in to this as I did not think of it . drunken
But my engine dose turn over veary well .
Thanks
hughb
hughb

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Post  BUNGLE Fri 03 Apr 2009, 10:42 pm

WE SHIMMED OUR SLIDEBARS TO GET THEM RUNNING NICELY TOO, EASY TI DO AS TIGHT AT CYLINDER END, AND TIGHT AT WEIGHTSHAFT END, DID MILL A SMALL RECESS UNDER THE LOWER SLIDE BAR FIRST. THE SHIMS THEN GO IN THE RIGHT PLACES TO CORRECT THE RUN OUT, WILL DOUBLE CHECK, AGAIN, ON FINAL FIT UP, AS I'VE GOT TO PAINT THE WEIGHTSHAFT BRACKET YET.

ALSO FITTED A SHIM UNDER THE FRONT EDGE OF THE BRACKET, BETWEEN BOILER, TO HELP ALIGNMENT ON OURS.

BUNGLE


Last edited by BUNGLE on Sun 05 Apr 2009, 8:38 pm; edited 1 time in total

BUNGLE

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Post  hughb Sat 04 Apr 2009, 6:59 pm

As for me now just a bit of tin foile under it . Not got it right yet as I had to plant veg out .
hughb
hughb

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Post  northburrell Sun 05 Apr 2009, 6:24 am

Hugh I would try and use somthing a little more solid for your shim if your doubling up layers of tin foil to get a thicker shim. if your only using one slither of it then it should be fine but for this part of the engine i'd use a proper shim..

If you buy a fairly cheap feeler gauge you can cut it up. these should go down to about half a thou and are also handy for shimming the straps and bearing housings if need.

J

northburrell

Number of posts : 197
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Post  hughb Mon 06 Apr 2009, 6:03 pm

northburrell wrote:Hugh I would try and use somthing a little more solid for your shim if your doubling up layers of tin foil to get a thicker shim. if your only using one slither of it then it should be fine but for this part of the engine i'd use a proper shim..

If you buy a fairly cheap feeler gauge you can cut it up. these should go down to about half a thou and are also handy for shimming the straps and bearing housings if need.

J
Hi Thanks I will do this sound better cyclops
hughb
hughb

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Post  northburrell Mon 06 Apr 2009, 8:31 pm

you might find a thin drinks can like a red bull can handy try cutting one up and see if it does the job before buying and cutting up a feeler gauge.. just a thought..

Jo

northburrell

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