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tender and belly tank

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Flasback
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Kevster
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tender and belly tank Empty tender and belly tank

Post  Kevster Tue 22 Nov 2011, 7:37 pm

Hi All ,

Was thinking about the insides of the tender and bellly tank ,I have sealed with the frost tank sealer and was considering if I should coat the insides with anything else like isoflex or swirl some varnish about in there to try and make it as rust proof as possible.

What is everyone else doing?

Thanks

Kev
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Post  lynnr Tue 22 Nov 2011, 7:50 pm

Hi

I have used the iso-flex to both seal and protect.
lynnr
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Post  Dan Tue 22 Nov 2011, 9:54 pm

lynnr wrote:Hi

I have used the iso-flex to both seal and protect.

No sealant, just the Isoflex Lynn?

Cheers

Dan
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Post  lynnr Wed 23 Nov 2011, 8:17 am

Hi Dan

Yes just the iso-flex.

Clean and degrease metal. Prime with iso-flex primer. Let primer go tacky as per the tin. Paint with iso-flex.

When I was painting with the iso-flex I left the two end panels off the belly tank. painted everything up to 1" from the edges for the end panels. Painted the end panels to 1" of their edges. Let it all dry. Fit the end panels and paint over the bolt ends and to complete the 1" left bare. I did tape up the outer edges to stop the iso-flex dripping out of the joint while it set.

Having had to take the end covers of the belly tank to undo the brackets I can contest to the strength of the iso-flex. It had almost welded the end panel on. The plate was starting to bend before the iso-flex let go!

On the tender. I did the same process but left the front plate off (the one facing the firebox) Painted everything else to the edge. You can even get to the backside of the brake tube easily. Painted the end panel and fitted. Then standing the tender on the tow hitch straps, where it connects to the hornplates and painted the final joint area via the inspection hole.

Both operations were performed in the kitchen with no drips or mess made santa
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Post  Brian M Wed 23 Nov 2011, 8:34 am

Hello Dan,

Personally, I just used the tank sealant (as recommended), as this should prevent rust.

Just my thought process ( Shocked ) but if you use an additional treatment, could it not react with the sealant, or if the additional treatment came off, would that leave a weak spot in the tender (exposed bare metal) and therefore, defeat the objective anyway?

Having trained as a chemist, I am always a little dubious about mixing products, I am not an expert in metallic chemistry, so I could be wrong.

I know we all want to do the best we can, but you need to be careful you do not over work the process or add too much additional cost to the build.

Good luck in whatever you decided (it is your build)!

Regards,

Brian M
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Post  Dan Wed 23 Nov 2011, 12:15 pm

I agree about mixing things - I wouldn't want to use both methods. As I'm only on kit 2 right now I haven't got the recommendations for the frost sealant but I guess it's something like this:

http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-tank-sealer-473ml.html

I was wondering what I would do with all the left over isoflex though! I've already got a loads of roof sealant (not isoflex) on the shelf!
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Post  Brian M Wed 23 Nov 2011, 12:26 pm

Por15, that is the baby! Be careful when using it, my lawn still has a nice silver (hard) sheen, and that is six months after it was applied Very Happy
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Post  IanL Wed 23 Nov 2011, 1:16 pm

The Por15 really does get everywhere I had read in several places on the forum to take care. Well take it from me do everything you can then do it again because the sealer has a knack to find every gap in the tank joints. It even appeared to melt the adhesive on the masking tape I used to cover over the tank joints. I now have a sliver topped work table, it also has taken an age to remove it from the outside of the tender.

Ian
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Post  Flasback Wed 23 Nov 2011, 4:46 pm

Brian,

Why did you POR15 your lawn and not the inside of the belly tank!!!!!!

Oh yes I remember I forgot to plug the drain plug Embarassed

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Post  bjwlancashire Wed 23 Nov 2011, 11:46 pm

For my tender I first ran some liquid metal along the joints. Then I liberally applied the POR15 with a paint brush onto inside of the water space before putting the top on (the piece with the inspection cover). Before I fit the top I ran a bead of the liquid metal just below the holes for the rivet bolts and when I positioned the top piece it automatically pushed into the liquid metal bead. Reaching into the water space through the inspection hole I gave it a quick run round with a finger inside a disposable glove to finish it off.

It covered fine when brushing and does not get everywhere but plan on throwing the brush away afterwards - I think it is a secret military chemical weapon What a Face

When I spoke to Tim Watson about his belly tank stars it was he who suggested it to me as an option, painting it on as you build the belly tank up. He had done it that way painting a couple coat on as he assembled the belly tank, one panel at a time.

One more thing, you may have to do it again once you put the fittings on the tender if you fit them after painting - things like the the steps etc.. Mine were powder coated for protection of protruding parts. It depends on you when you fit those parts, before or after painting the main tender body.

Brian
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Post  IanL Thu 24 Nov 2011, 8:31 am

Hi Brian,

I also initially painted the POR15 on with the top off but it still poured through around the top.

A tip about the brush as you say threw away after use. For this type of application a tip I picked up building cars and applying rubber sealer was to use a piece of nylon rope. At the end of the rope about an inch in, that's 25mm for the younger ones, wrap some insulation tape around the rope then cut off the last three inches, fray the end out a bit and you have a cheap disposable brush.

Ian
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Post  Graeme81 Thu 24 Nov 2011, 3:16 pm

anybody try this stuff? (watch the video) easy to apply...
https://www.getflexseal.com/?tag=im|sm|go|gn&a_aid=011&a_bid=a4cc8494
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Post  Robfishman Thu 24 Nov 2011, 3:32 pm

Looks almost to good to be true!!
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Post  IanL Thu 24 Nov 2011, 3:59 pm

Has any body found a UK supplier?
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Post  Rickster Thu 24 Nov 2011, 7:49 pm

Guys, (and gals) you can quite easily re-use your brushes after using POR15. Just wipe off the excess with a rag and use thinners to clean the brush. I've kept mine from when I did the Tender and I've just used it again last weekend to coat the belly tank bolts hopefully for the last time!

Rick

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Post  Dan Thu 24 Nov 2011, 9:19 pm

Frost do a tester kit for about £14 in their catalogue (just looked online and it's more/not available/couldn't find it), you get enough POR15 to cover 17'square and marine clean, some metal ready, some gloves and 2 brushes. Seems enough for a 4" tender - not sure if it would be enough for belly tanks as well though.

That spray rubber video is great Laughing
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Post  Robfishman Fri 25 Nov 2011, 7:49 pm

Word of warning with POR15. Yesterday I had to take the end off the bowser and found the POR had not bonded to the tank. I used the primer and followed the instruction, parts had bonded like sh#t to a blanket but others areas could be pealed off. Worth checking it's been properly bonded on your builds just in case.

I spoke to a specialist car restoration company today and they said they have had the same problem even when they have brushed it on and now use Hydrate 80 which is brushed on in two coats.
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